Akademik Veri Yönetim Sistemi
MILLI FOLKLOR, sa.125, ss.227-247, 2020 (AHCI)
In almost every region of Anatolia where cotton, silk and wool yarn production is made, simple hand looms are used for cloth weaving. In addition to meeting the requirements such as clothing and upholstery, these weavings, which constitute an important source of income, are known and named with the characteristics of raw materials in some regions (Ankara sofu, Hatay silk etc.), with special finishing processes (Sal Sapik) in some regions and with weaving technique (Dastar) in some regions. The increasing mechanization in the textile sector after the industrial revolution has made the competition of hand-woven fabrics demanding a lot of labor difficult, and fast fashion trends have reduced the interest and demand for traditional production. Weaving, which was transmitted to next generations in the family in the past and reached to the level of ahi community through master-apprentice relations, has unfortunately been included in the abandoned professions in many regions. Looms and other weaving tools in one corner of the garden or house have been left to rot in idle state, and even destroyed in most areas. Nowadays, the resuscitation works of local institutions and organizations may cause the degeneration of local originality. Since this process leads to the forgetting of cultural values besides occupational erosion, it is of great importance that weaving samples, which have survived from past to the present, be compiled and documented with field studies and scientific research techniques. In this study, shuttle fabrics which had an important role in the past in Dagkuplu village of Saricakaya district of Eskischir province have been examined. It has been identified that traditional weaving activities have been completely abandoned in the region, but traditional Dagkuplu weavings are still maintained at Advanced Technical School in Eskischir. Data has been collected on the old and new weaving samples by reaching the families who have weavers in the past in the village of Dagkuplu and the trainers and master trainers working under the "Saricakaya-Dagkuplu Village Fabric Weaving" project at Advanced Technical School in Eski & sect;ehir. According to the data obtained from the field research, cotton and silk yarn kerchiefs, table cloths, towel bed linen, undergarment and roll of fabric used for every need have been manufactured in Dagkuplu village. At the abovecited School, only napkin is woven within the scope of the project. These weaves have the same characteristics in terms of yarn count, raw material and pattern characteristics with original local weavings, but differ in density and reed number used in centimeters. In accordance with the data obtained, the fabric identities for the old and new fabrics were created. The usage area of the weaving samples, knitting type, yarn type, yarn twist direction and number, yarn number, yarn density at 1 cm, useful card width, total warp wire number, width and length measurements have been tabulated and evaluated. At the same time, the properties of tools and equipment, weaving preparation processes, weaving and finishing processes, motifs and composition characteristics used in both the region and the School have been examined. The study has been supported with sample photographs and motif drawings.