Akademik Veri Yönetim Sistemi
Milli Folklor, cilt.135, ss.201-212, 2022 (AHCI)
© 2022, Milli Folklor Dergisi. All rights reserved.The emergence of the industrialization phases in the textile sector has made it important to reveal the unique aspects of the Turkish weaving tradition and the synthesis it has reached, from silk and wool weaving to cotton and linen weaving. The causal ties of the Ottoman weaving tradition with the past and the historical projections that have reached today have not yet been evaluated from a general point of view. This evaluation can only be possible with the researches to be carried out on the sub-types of the weaving tradition. In this context, it is important to reveal the general adventure of the Ankara shawl, which is referred to as the Engürü shawl in the Ottoman archive documents. Ankara shawl is the most important production commodity in Ankara, from the end of the 17th century to the 19th century and is the most demanded fabric by elite groups after quality silk fabrics. The first document in which the Ankara shawl was identified is dated 1715, while the last document is dated 1863. After 1790, the density of documents related to the Ankara shawl has been increasing. There are many signs that suggest that the Ankara shawl weaving technique was produced as a result of technical progress in the weaving technique of mohair fabric. Ankara mohair fabric is a type of weaving completely unique to the weaving technique from yarn raw material. Ankara shawl is a fabric woven from the same thread as mohair, in a period from the end of the 17th century to the first half of the 19th centu-ry, it was understood that summer clothes were made from Ankara shawl in cities such as Istanbul and Bursa. Navy and Saray are among those who demand the Ankara shawl. It has been determined that a white Ankara shawl was produced as a flag fabric for the Navy. The role of Muslim women in the production of fabric in Ankara is also reflected in the documents. Since the 19th century, important regulations regarding the production of shawls have been made in Ankara against imported shawl fabrics, but these measures have not been successful. It is also seen in the documents that shawls of European origin started to be in demand in Ottoman cities, especially in Istanbul, since the second half of the 19th century. It is understood that there was a very rapid decline in Ankara shawl production between 1830 and1840. Considering that the problem was due to the instability of quality and price instability, the Ottoman administration wanted Ankara shawl to be produced in standard size and quality and to be dyed and stamped in the miri dyehouse in order to avoid tax loss. For quality and price stability, since the second quarter of the 19th century, fixed places were determined in cities such as Istanbul and Bursa, with the practice of monopolization, and control over the supply was estab-lished. While the place determined in Istanbul within the framework of the monopolization application is Yenihan, it is the Old Yenihan in Bursa. Although the heavy tax burden on the Ankara shawl is felt in the content of the statements in the documents, it was not aimed to protect a certain group by bringing monopoly with the practice of monopolization, but rather quality and price stability. Objections to the fixed space application determined afterwards were reflected in the documents on the grounds that it hindered the production ability. Ankara shawl; varieties such as hünkâri, berce, kaba shawl, harcialem mediocre shawl and edna shawl and colors such as narcissus, canary, samuri, squirrel, brown, blue, yellow shawl and white shawl were deter-mined.